Chanel Vintage Crosses – A Divine Touch of Opulence

Vintage Chanel crosses bring two things together: a religious symbol and costume jewellery. Coco Chanel took the traditional cross and turned it into something women wanted to wear as fashion.

She did not follow convention. Her designs drew on Byzantine art and Catholic motifs, and she mixed pearls with gold-plated costume jewellery, which was not what good jewellery was supposed to look like.

Why Chanel chose the cross

Her interest in the cross goes back to her Catholic upbringing. But she was not making pieces to preach. For Coco the cross was about art more than religion. You can see the Byzantine influence in the bold stones and the detailed metalwork.

The crosses and the jewellery in these photographs are not mine. They belong to my friend Nonna Donata, in Arezzo, where the photographs were taken.

Pearls and gold: Coco’s unorthodox pairing

Who would have put pearls with costume gold? Chanel did. In her hands pearls were no longer only for the aristocracy. By setting them in gold-plated metal she blurred the line between real jewellery and costume jewellery.

The crosses have bright stones with pearls around them. The contrast is bold. It still looks controlled.

How to wear a Chanel cross

Keep it simple, and let the cross be the centre of the outfit.

For day, wear it with a crisp white blouse and high-waisted trousers, with a chunky belt at the waist.

For more, layer it with other gold necklaces. Coco loved a layered look. Wear it over a little black dress, with oversized sunglasses and a red lip.

Coco’s legacy in vintage crosses

Coco believed in breaking the rules, and her jewellery shows it. The crosses have gone from the couture houses of Paris to the wardrobes of women buying vintage today.

Why vintage crosses last

Trends come and go. A cross like this works with old Hollywood glamour, and it works with street clothes. Every stone and every pearl is carefully placed.

How to spot an authentic Chanel vintage cross

Vintage Chanel is popular, so fakes are everywhere. Start with the quality. A real cross has weight. It is not a light trinket. Then look at the engraving, which should be precise.

Look for the marks. A genuine Chanel cross often carries the signature logo, placed where you have to look for it. And be wary of anything too shiny or too highly polished. A vintage piece has a soft patina that comes with age.

A Chanel cross is worn with confidence. That was Coco’s point. Fashion should give a woman strength, not intimidate her.