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It’s All in the Wiggle – A Look at the Wiggle Dress

What a wiggle dress is, how to tell it from a sheath, and who wears it well, from Joan Holloway in Mad Men to Queen Letizia and Queen Maxima.

Collage of four fitted wiggle dresses in blue, black, pink and green, worn by a woman with auburn hair

Some styles never go away. The wiggle dress is one of them. It is the fitted dress of the 1950s and 1960s, and it is still walking into wardrobes today. Think of Joan Holloway in Mad Men, or Marilyn Monroe.

Black wiggle dress with an orange and black chevron-striped bodice, on a mannequin and worn on screen in Mad Men

Still: Mad Men, AMC

What is a wiggle dress?

A wiggle dress is a sheath dress taken to the extreme. It hugs the body and then tapers from the hips to the hem, which sits at the knee or just below. Not any sheath dress will do. If the hem doesn’t narrow, it is a sheath. Pretty, but not a wiggle.

The cut was designed to follow a woman’s curves and to draw the eye to how she moves. You don’t walk in a wiggle dress. You strut.

Why the wiggle is for royalty

The key is the fit. Queen Letizia of Spain has mastered it. Queen Maxima of the Netherlands has made the wiggle dress her own too, in bold colours and prints.

Queen Maxima in a turquoise dress with yellow braid, a pink and turquoise feather hem and red shoes, in two pictures

Kate Middleton is another to look at for a fitted dress.

Three women in fitted dresses: black with a jewelled neckline, royal blue, and bright orange

Queen Maxima again, this time in a fitted red dress.

Queen Maxima in a fitted red dress with a draped neckline and tan court shoes, in two pictures

And Kate once more, in a fitted pink midi dress.

Woman in a fitted pink midi dress with button detail and nude heels, carrying a pale pink clutch on a cobbled path

But wiggle dresses are not only for royalty or Hollywood. So let’s be practical. This is not the easiest dress to move in. For me, that is rather the point. You slow down. You own each step.

If you are shopping for one, look at the taper first. This is not a dress to throw on. The hem should narrow towards the knee, enough to give you that walk.

Wiggle inspiration

There are plenty of modern versions, from classic polka dots to bold new prints and fabrics. Designers keep going back to the shape. Take your cue from Bettie Page or from Joan Holloway. There is a wiggle dress out there for you.

Collage around a teal ribbed bodycon dress, with blue strappy heels, a money bag and a motorbike

If you sew, why not make your own? Choose a good fabric, and add a slit or a kick pleat so you can walk.

Back view of a woman with cropped blonde hair in a black and white zigzag print dress and a red tasselled shoulder bag

Life is too short to wear boring dresses.

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