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Clothes and Pathogens The Hidden Luxury of Cleanliness

Why vintage and new clothes should be cleaned before you wear them: washing, steaming, and the case for natural fibres such as silk and cashmere.

Burgundy Yves Saint Laurent vintage bag laid out on a bed with beaded denim jackets, a purple knit and a black-and-white cat

Clothes carry germs. It is not a glamorous thought. But it is as true of a silk blazer as of a cotton T-shirt, and of new clothes as well as old ones.

Pathogens are sneaky

Pathogens cling to fabric. If a piece was not cleaned properly before it reached your wardrobe, whatever it picked up in its past life can still be there. I love vintage. But I would rather not inherit a stranger’s skin bacteria along with the piece. That goes for a Dior scarf as much as for a jacket from a market stall.

With second-hand clothes the stakes go up, because somebody has worn them. But new clothes have a past too. Think of all the hands that have touched a new silk blouse before it reaches yours. From the fabric mill to the shop rail there are more steps than you would think.

The stalls in the first two photographs are at the market in Lucca.

Gracie Opulanza from behind in a denim jacket with a white criss-cross back, at a handbag stall under a white canopy

Wash when buying new

So what do we do? Clean everything before you wear it, new or old. Wash it by hand or steam it, the way the care label allows. Fine clothing needs care anyway.

More and more people are buying pre-loved, and the younger generations are heading for the thrift shops. I am all for it. But let’s face the facts: a used garment has been worn. You wouldn’t walk barefoot in a stranger’s shoes. So why put on a stranger’s jacket without cleaning it first?

Vintage silk scarves laid out on a market stall, including Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo prints, with gold-tone jewellery

Invest in a steamer

My tip is to steam. It is not only for getting the creases out. Steam kills many bacteria. Add a fabric spray that disinfects and you have done two jobs. And if you have an ultraviolet sanitiser, use it.

For me, I will rarely wear anything that is not leather, silk or wool. Natural fibres such as silk and cashmere are said to hold on to fewer germs than synthetics. That is no reason to skip the cleaning. But it is one more reason to buy them.

Plum leather Yves Saint Laurent bag beside embellished denim jackets and a purple knit, with a cat on the quilted bedspread

If it means an extra trip to the dry cleaner or a steamer at home, so be it. A clean garment is part of the luxury.

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